Scent: Escentric Molecules 01 & 02

Molecule

 

A friend runs a small perfume company, and they produce four products; Escentric 01 & Molecule 01 use an aroma-chemical Iso E Super, which has a sweet-smelling warm fragrance reminiscent of sandalwood. Whereas the former is blended with other notes, the Molecule 01 version is pure Iso E Super, which is most interesting when used as a base beneath something else. If worn raw it can be very sexy on some, but it borders on uneventful when applied to my skin.

The Teenager wears Escentric 01 as his signature scent, which lingers for at least 12 hours around the flat - not in any unpleasant way, but such is it's strength it does overpower every other smell.

Neither of these worked for me (they came out a few years back, and I was given samples to try at the time) but more recently the line has had two new products added, Escentric 02 & Molecule 02. The first is again a blended concoction, with summery lightness and citrus hints that is very vivid, but not quite as unisex as the rest of the line - my Niece adores wearing it for instance, it is lovely and sophisticated for a teenager, yet perfectly relaxed and floral on a woman.

The aroma-chemical this time is very interesting indeed, a synthetic version of the active ingredient in ambergris called Ambroxan (natural ambergris was obtained from the intestines of the sperm whale). J. refers to Molecule 02 as their anti-perfume, for good reason; when we first tried it, it was as though a manufacturing error had resulted in the bottle containing alcohol only, as once the initial vodka whiff had gone there was no discernible smell.

When the scent does hit you, the effect is radical however; nothing I've ever worn has created the same effect as Molecule 02. People turn in the street, the girl in the coffee bar looks up as I approach and comments whenever I'm wearing it; and yet I can barely smell it myself, irrespective of the amount I've used. The atmospheric conditions play their part; humid and hot days ramp up it's potency enormously.

A recent incident sums up it's strange effect. One hot muggy day I was at a client's office, sitting across the table from a senior partner, with a listless breeze coming in from the window next to me. The client kept lifting her head and sniffing the air, then walked round and sniffed me directly, asking what I was wearing. I told her the story, and mentioned that Molecule 02 was stocked at Liberty's just around the corner from the office. After commenting on how lovely the scent was for a further 10 minutes or so she went off to track it down and grab food.

She returned with perfume, a fragrant lunch of Thai noodles and upon pushing her empty plate away she stood up.

"How delightful; the smell of you and that fabulous lunch ... all I need now is sex".

Escentric Molecules

 

Fashion Blogs: Lists, Facts & The Death Throes of the Dinosaurs

I was asked twice last week if I'd prepare a summary of fashion blogs with some commentary, in both cases for senior people in the Fashion Industry. The lists were slightly different so as to be tailored to their target audience, but here is an overview of my segmentation (I'll not reproduce the whole list, not least because it wasn't intended to be anything other than broadly representative of trends and hence unfairly left out too many people).

Top Independents

The top handful are as you might expect, with LibertyLondonGirl and Style Bubble setting the pace - I felt obliged to include Tavi on the grounds that she needs to be read by anyone trying to understand how the world of on-high fashion pronouncements is changing. For 'changing', read 'this is the point where the meteor hits'.

Mainstream Sites

I had little interest in listing mainstream sites, as my clients (and a good number of you reading this) are viewing far more of these than me, but I did think RDuJour was worth mentioning, as it is something of a blog / web hybrid - a bit flat when they just repeat ads or magazine covers, but I like it when they're acidic in commentary.

Style File - Visual Diaries

I'm a complete 'Visual Diary' junkie, and keep prodding stylish friends to start blogs to showcase their daily looks. I listed more people in this section than any other, including the ridiculously talented Jane at Sea of Shoes, to whom we will return in a moment. I have to mention The Cupcake Diary also, Alice produces such fabulous surprises (for instance, see The Aftermath, posted yesterday).

Street Style

Where The Sartorialist has led, a hundred street photographers have followed. Am most impressed by the stuff coming from Japan and Scandinavia at the moment, they seem to me to be historical and geographically significant documentaries, whereas the international pack take the same old shots of the same old models after every show and act like it's some random event. Still, Face Hunter is great, and I particularly like Yvan's own blog.

Personal Favourites

I rather indulged myself here, much to one client's delight, as she is now completely hooked on FASHEMATICS!!!. My personal choice from the list is another of Jane's projects at Sea of Shoes, a link in her sidebar to the frankly staggering "They don't call them lovers in high school, Leeland". The (mis)quote is from Twin Peaks, there are videos of Japan from the unrivalled Tin Drum album, and page after page of lush, sexy and inspiring photo archive. Oh, and she is seventeen. I was at the studio of the UK's most creative designer today, and we were trying to get some ridiculous piece of web-based software working. The machine we were using belonged to one of the hugely talented twenty-somethings that work for him, and on the Bookmarks bar, alongside Style.com was Sea of Shoes.

The Death Throes

Yesterday LLG posted the following story lambasting the Wall Street Journal for all but ignoring it's own editorial policy of fact-checking articles where bloggers are concerned; it seems that for some in the mainstream press those rules don't apply when the social web is involved. In the UK there have been some embarrassingly inept attacks on Twitter and Facebook by BBC News and various newspapers, articles which are all the more irritating for being researched and written by people who use social media every hour of their working lives (and no doubt in leisure time too) as an important tool. One of the people badly treated by the WSJ article was Jane, who, it was stated, had dropped out of school to pursue her blogging career. Her rebuttal is both brief and rather more charitable than many of us would have been in similar circumstances.

I'm reminded of the adage that the only reason the NY Times prints it's Corrections column is to make you believe everything else in the previous day's paper must have been true; it may be that some bloggers are overly sensitive to these perceived slights at the hands of their lumbering prehistoric forebears, simply because they are carefully reading every piece that crops up with an insider's gimlet eye. One thing I'm certain of, however; the nimble and fleet of foot now hold the advantage. Building immobile walls around your content in such a climate is (and I'm unable to remain as charitable as Jane here) a special kind of insanity.

 

Footwear Collection: Cheaney Custom Made Boots

  • Manufacturer: Cheaney, Made in England
  • Style: Custom-made black calf leather boots, 'Fareham IV' last
  • Price Paid: £240 for one-off

Black leather boots from Cheaney, custom made for me. The previously featured Cheaney suede boots were such a perfect fit that I asked at their flagship store on Bond Street whether there were other colours in the same style; the only available option was their custom service, in which you pick an existing last, leather and colour and you get a pair of custom-made shoes in 4 or 5 weeks. The cost is about £100 more than the retail price for the original style and given how comfortable my suede pair were, this seemed very reasonable, particularly when compared to a pair of bespoke John Lobb shoes.

Cheaney

Cheaney Shoemakers

Wrist Watch: 1950's Longines

  • Manufacturer: Longines, Made in Switzerland
  • Style: Early 1950's manual
  • Price Paid: £100, Antique Shop in Prague

Longines

We had been discussing the 'What I Wore Today' drawings posted a couple of days ago by various people  (you can see them on Liberty London Girl's site) when Kiz rather hopefully asked if I had a watch collection. I wish. I've only ever had one watch at a time during my adult life, but with the exception of one disgraceful episode involving a Storm, they have always been from Longines.

The first was my father's, a gift from the Press Association for decades of service, which I wore throughout my twenties, regularly having to replace the oft-shattered crystal. The second I bought for myself, the most expensive thing of that decade by way of clothing, in my thirties; a new, stainless steel thing of beauty. And now this one, a classic vintage timepiece with 50 years of tarnish and bloom on it's silver face, suitably paired with a good quality lizard strap.

 

Your Footwear Collection: Today's Guest is @exromana with '72 Hours in Rome'

Miu Miu

The story these shoes bring to mind is perhaps more about my younger sister F. than it is about me.  F. hadn't visited since my move to Rome; she was working long hours at her law firm, often clocking up a hundred per week. In late Autumn, just prior to Thanksgiving,
F. rang me.

"Flying in Thursday evening, flying out Sunday evening".

Brief, like Il Ponentino, blowing from the west of the Mediterranean.

This was her first trip to Rome; she read History at Uni and has a keen interest in Ancient Rome, so there could be no better destination to visit one's sister. Did we line up outside the monuments and museums like ants following the pheromone trail? Did she guide me through the Foro Romano and explain the importance of the Tullianum and Lapis Niger?

No.

Realising we had little time, 'A Plan' was devised. It involved shoes, purses and black truffles. It didn't involve Roman monuments.

The morning light was just turning transparent when we set off to rent a Cinquecento, then head north toward a pair of towns in Tuscany: Montevarchi and Leccio Regello. For the shopping obsessed those place names are buzz words which quicken the heart - home to the designer outlet stores of Prada, Gucci, Loro Piana, Sergio Rossi and Bottega.

Well, you understand.

This was richly deserved girl time, and F. was quite right to remind me that  "After all, it was Ovid who said, Time, the devourer of everything". We had but a short time to investigate all the goods on offer in both towns, but why pay full price on the Condotti and Babuino when Montevarchi is a mere 260 or so kilometres away from Rome. Even when on a 72 hour stopover in Rome, where is the sense?

Obviously, we did the truly sensible thing and drove the 260 kilometres.

Our first stop was Space; the Prada outlet in Montevarchi. Those of you who have been may recall that the current slick outlet didn't exist seven years ago but was instead housed in a makeshift warehouse. On weekends the lines were so long that one had to obtain a numbered ticket outside the entrance. Thankfully F. and I made it there on a weekday and we just smiled and ciao ciao'd the piacione in his slim, navy suit, and sidled in. BTW, this technique works wonders at Fiumicino Passport Control; in fact, you might even get an invitation for un caffettino!

The shoes pictured were in the Miu Miu and Azzedine Alaïa sale section. These were a throwback to the bone-white & bronze Roland Cartier vertiginous sandals my mum wore in the '80s. White python, with silver leaf scalloping and flat, biscuit-wafer thin soles. Not to be ruined by the San Pietrini. On sale for €130. No hesitation. Done.

The shopping continued all day and we got back into Rome by 10pm, driving straight towards Piazza delle Coppelle through the historical centre in a rental car without a permit; throwing caution to the wind. We were famished and needed to complete the third part of our plan: truffles. A meal of trofie al tartufo nero, washed down with Vermentino at Maccheroni was just perfetto.

A year later F. came to Rome and this time stayed over the summer. She went to the Colosseo, Foro Romano and Musei Vaticani. She explained, in great detail, the role of the Tullianum. And, we went back to Maccheroni for the trofie alla norma and more Vermentino.

==============

Grazie mille di cuore to Shayma for sending this wonderfully evocative tale, please do follow her on Twitter

Race Report: Middlesex 10K Championships, Victoria Park

The last time A. and I were in this clubhouse, we very nearly got ourselves banned for life for setting off a fire extinguisher. In mitigation, the last time would have been 1975 or thereabouts. It wouldn't have been either of us that actually did the deed, but friends at the Athletic club to which we both belonged from age 11.

The prominently displayed sign suggests this is no genteel Home Counties event, for on this cool Sunday morning in early autumn A. and I are to run the Middlesex 10K Championships in Victoria Park. There is a very big E in the post code, and as the sign suggests, you'd do well not to run alone in the evenings around here.

10K

It is a landmark event in many ways; we both lived in Hackney for a number of years, and ran around the park and adjacent canal daily. This was when there were things floating in the canal you'd do well not to inspect too closely. Some 20 years ago A. ran his best half-marathon here; he mentioned that race to the club official organising today's event, who immediately recalled the scorching conditions all those years ago. Being here is a throwback to an even earlier time for us however, the annual Victoria Park Relays which we both took part in between ages 11 and 16; it's also the first time we will have competed in the same event for decades.

I've known A. for 35 years, was best man at his wedding, although there has been a huge gap in the relationship (entirely my fault). Yet in all those years, I have only beaten him twice while running. That is a precise definition. I didn't mean whilst racing, I meant every time we've ever run together in the same temporal space, no matter how lowly the training run or weekend cross-country he has beaten me, with two exceptions. No, I'm going to list them, and this isn't some deeply-harbored grudge at his greater natural ability - it has more often come down to the desire to win on his part and the complete lack of competitive nature on mine.

Except.

Except that the reason I joined the Athletic Club aged eleven was my sister had begun to beat me in our regular sprints around the back garden. Curious as to how her sudden improvement had come about, I found she was now training twice a week at the local track. Two could and did play that game.

So here we are, at what can only be termed a retro-running event. Across the capital thousands of people are taking part in a Breast Cancer charity run in one of the royal parks, dressed in pink T-shirts and cheered on by loved ones and well wishers. Here in East London it's altogether more serious. The predominantly male participants are dressed in their club kit, strips that haven't changed in 50 years, livid red & yellow stripe combinations that recall Second Division football clothing from the early seventies. I'm getting changed when the guy next to me, in his twenties, is joined by a friend looking ashen; "This is a serious race", he says with concern. "I know", his friend replies, saying to me "We only came for an easy run round the park". The smell is of Ralgex spray and liniment oil. There is a long queue for the toilets. People stretch against walls, chairs, some lie on the grass in zen-like contemplation of what is to come.

10K

A. speaks to his mother on the phone and she asks whether, once we get to the starting line, we will actually speak to one another. There was a time when that would have been a quite logical question to ask, and even now she is only half joking.

In the event, we are separated as soon as we start, as I have been running with some consistency over the last year or so while A. has been getting back into full fitness only over the past few months. I set off at my desired pace, and pass the halfway mark in the same time as I ran a 5K race the previous weekend. I watch my split times up until 8K and know that even coasting the final mile or so will bring me a significant personal best, so relax a little and enjoy the last part of the race, enjoy also being back here in one of my favorite London parks. The crowd, such that it exists, comprises the race marshals, some eager girls manning the water table and the occasional dog walker.

I finish in 41:56, a good couple of minutes faster than I've run previously as a veteran - my WAVA is around 72% (your percentage when compared to the world record for your age group, a system designed to allow people of all ages to compete fairly against one another). I walk back up from the funnel to the final approach and see A. running smoothly in, finishing in 44:45. He is both happy to have completed the distance comfortably yet irritated he didn't kick harder towards the end, as he had lost track of just how far there was to go at 9K.

We get changed and walk down to find the rail replacement bus from the deserted heart of the nearby industrial estate. This lies on the edge of the new Olympic Park at Stratford - though I suspect the area in which we're waiting won't be part of the athletes warm-up route, nor indeed will the marathon pass this local landmark.

10K

Grabbing a coffee before heading in opposite directions we reminisce about growing up as runners; it was an alternative social life for us, separate from school and one that brought together kids who would have not mixed for any other reason. It seems anachronistic to write this, but these were my first catholic friends, my first black friends, my first contact with anyone at a single-sex school and when we travelled for competitions, my first contact with anyone from other parts of the country. It defined us physically also, and still does - we both have resting heart rates of 50bpm, and as great a lung capacity as is possible for our age - and for all we have trained and worked in our respective professions over the years, it may well be that the thing we instinctively know most about is how to run.

Further running things you must read:

Miles to go before I sleep by Joad Raymond

What I Talk About When I Talk About Running by Haruki Murakami

Coda: Just received text from race organizers, 101st, 12th in my age group.

Footwear Collection: Cheaney Suede Boots

  • Manufacturer: Cheaney, Made in England
  • Style: Bench-made brown suede boots, 'Fareham IV'
  • Price Paid: £65 new, on sale (£140 Retail at the time)

Dark brown suede boots from Cheaney (now owned by Church's) these are sadly discontinued, despite this being one of the classic English lasts. The beautiful shape (note the swelling of the heel cup in particular) and perfect fit led me to order a custom pair of these in black calf, which will feature here soon. Looking through the current Cheaney range, I note the starting prices are almost £200, which is nearly the same as a pair of Church's cost a few years back.

Cheaney

Cheaney Shoemakers

Photo Essay: Computing Iconography in Film

           
Click here to download:
Photo_Essay_Computing_Iconogra.zip (670 KB)

  1. Dr. Strangelove or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb (1964)
  2. The Computer Wore Tennis Shoes (1969)
  3. The Conversation (1974)
  4. Three Days of the Condor (1975)
  5. War Games (1983)
  6. Hackers (1995)

Joke # 7

What do you call a Chav in a metal box?

Safe.

What do you call a Chav in a metal box that's been thrown down a shaft?

Well Safe.

Two Chavs decide to jump off a cliff and race each other to the bottom. Who wins?

Society.

The Poetry Bookshelf: Shelf Two

Poetry Bookshelf Two

You can obtain a larger image by clicking above

  • Roy Fuller, 1st Editions, including some private press & some early novels
  • Thom Gunn, 1st Editions, The Sense of Movement, Fighting Terms & My Sad Captains
  • Craig Raine - Collected Poems, A Martian Sends a Postcard Home, 'The Onion, Memory'
  • Tony Harrison - Collected Poems, V. , some of his verse translations, some private press

 

I mentioned, as we were inspecting the previous shelf, that school syllabus poetry and the manner in which we read it sucked all the life out of verse for me. In addition to English & Greek Lit I took a Modern Drama course starting with Ibsen and Strindberg right through Ionescu to Stoppard. I fell in love with dramatic dialogue while ignoring entirely the obvious fact that similar rhythms existed in poetry when read out loud.

Now of course I adore both Larkin and early Ted Hughes, although you won't often find me pulling one of the war poets from the shelf. Then, all were dead to me.

Poetry came to life with a force like a sharp blow to the face; one is momentarily truly alive even whilst feeling stunned. Tony Harrison's V. was published by the London Review of Books in January 1985 around the time of the Miner's Strike (cf Donkey Jackets & Monkey Boots), it being a publication I had recently started buying, in a feeble attempt to appear intellectual no doubt. Whatever shallowness I intended to disguise matters not a jot now, as I've bought the LRB ever since, even during a 10-year period living abroad. It has informed my life.

V. cries, shouts even, to be read aloud. The LRB and later Bloodaxe publication of the poem didn't have wide reach, and it took a contentious Channel 4 program in 1987 to make this the most infamous poem of it's day - but crucially it allowed the poem to be read aloud to a wide audience, by the poet, in the cadences of his Yorkshire accent. People's poetry, it was said.

After that, I read every issue of the LRB, discovered the Martian poetry of Craig Raine which led me to James Fenton and that led ... well to writers that appear on shelves lower down. It also forced me to look back at the poetry I'd rejected and realise how much I'd missed about the work of Hughes and in particular Larkin, and to discover Thom Gunn's work.


This graveyard on the brink of Beeston Hill's
the place I may well rest if there's a spot
under the rose roots and the daffodils
by which dad dignified the family plot.

If buried ashes saw then I'd survey
the places I learned Latin, and learned Greek,
and left, the ground where Leeds United play
but disappoint their fans week after week,

which makes them lose their sense of self-esteem
and taking a short cut home through these graves here
they reassert the glory of their team
by spraying words on tombstones, pissed on beer.

This graveyard stands above a worked-out pit.
Subsidence makes the obelisks all list.
One leaning left's marked FUCK, one right's marked SHIT
sprayed by some peeved supporter who was pissed.

Extract from V. by Tony Harrison